November was all about planning and logistics. I started down 2 paths: what to budget for this build, and how to make space for the pending kit. My wife calls this "nesting".... sounds legit!
11/1/2003 -
Here is my first attempt at the "budget". This is not to say I'm doing things cheaply but to emphasize the reality of building this car. As I had mentioned in my Introduction, the donor concept is what grabbed my attention back in 97'. But let's be realistic about the time frame. At the time, 1995, Mark and Dave Smith founded FFR, and they selected the 87'-93' F-Body Ford Mustang as the basis for supplying the running gear for the MkI Roadster.
Using a 12,000 mile a year average, a 87'donor might have 96,000 miles but a 93' would have only 24,000 miles, however, we're talking vehicles that are 'running.'. The key to keeping the costs down was to get a side wrecked Mustang for only $3,000 or less. Which means the miles on some of the cars could be far less! Now for the reality check.. this is 2003 and while the donor I selected was still running at 103,000, it's still 103,000 miles and questionable ones at that. The only advantage I found was I could "drive" the donor home and sell all of the body parts to help recoup the costs.
With this in mind, I already altered the plan of a $25K build by rebuilding the engine, transmission and rear end. Estimating an engine rebuild to be about $5,000, a transmission rebuild at $1,000 and a rear-end rebuild for another $1,000 (new gear ratio's and conversion to 5 lug) meant the new budget was to go to $32k.
The engine was the first place I wanted to ensure the most money went to. My requirements are much like others I suppose: a bullet proof bottom end. In my lifetime, I don't ever want to open up the engine block once it's been built. Also, if built up properly, it should be very reliable and offer decent performance; gas milage is really not the point of the car but drivability is for me. Having said that, I looked into everything from building up the block myself to a complete ready to run engine/crate motor. I looked at long blocks, short blocks, and kits. In the end, I almost decided on the Ford Motorsports long-block motor; a 302 with 345hp potential, with GT-40 alum. heads. To finish the engine, I predicted a $4,500 motor. Here is how I stacked up the motors:
PRELIMINARY Engine Budget Costs
Wynne Speed Long Block 302B w/AFR Heads $3,399.00 MSD Pro-Billet Distributor #8479 $260.00 Summit Performer RPM Intake #7121 $144.00 Wynne Speed Performer Series Carburator #1405 $230.00 Summit Harmonic Balancer $270.00 Summit (ask which one?) Flywheel $300.00 Summit (ask which one?) Water Pump $110.00 Summit (ask which one?) Cobra Valve Covers $110.00 Tony Branda Oil Pan $197.00 Wynne Speed Mechanical Fuel Pump $69.00 PAW K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) $127.00 Summit Power Master 140amp chrome alternator $260.00 PWM-8-37140 Subtotal of All Parts minus Long Block $1,817.00 .......................................................................................................................Total: $5,476.00
Keith Craft 306 Crate Motor w/Edelbrock Performer Heads, Performer Intake, Production Oilpan and 50oz damper $4,295.00. Performer Series Carburator #1405 $230.00 Summit Flywheel $300.00 Summit (ask which one?) Water Pump $110.00 Summit Cobra Valve Covers $110.00 Tony Branda Mechanical Fuel Pump $69.00 PAW K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) $127.00 Summit Power Master 140amp chrome alternator $260.00 PWM-8-37140 Subtotal of All Parts minus Long Block $1,206.00 .......................................................................................................................Total: $5,501.00
Ford Motorsports 302/340hp Long Block $3,219.95 FMS-M-6007-XB3. MSD Pro-Billet Distributor #8479 $260.00 Summit Performer RPM Intake #7121 $144.00 Wynne Speed Performer Series Carburator #1405 $230.00 Summit Cobra Valve Covers $110.00 Tony Branda Mechanical Fuel Pump $69.00 PAW K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) $127.00 Summit Power Master 140amp chrome alternator $260.00 PWM-8-37140 Subtotal of All Parts minus Long Block $1,200.00 ........................................................................................................................Total $4,419.95
Engine Factory 373hp long block w/damper, oilpan, water pump and flywheel $3,825.00 MSD Pro-Billet Distributor #8479 $260.00 Summit Performer RPM Intake #7121 $144.00 Wynne Speed Performer Series Carburator #1405 $230.00 Summit Cobra Valve Covers $110.00 Tony Branda Mechanical Fuel Pump $69.00 PAW K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) $127.00 Summit Power Master 140amp chrome alternator $260.00 PWM-8-37140 ........................................................................................................................Total: $5,025.00
Engine Factory 302 Crate Motor (373hp) ............................................................$5,425.00
Engine Factory 302 Crate Motor (350hp) ............................................................$5,100.00 (assume $150 for std. Flywheel)
It is clear that the FMS engine was the best bang for the buck in all this. (I did compare Coast High Performance and D.S.S. but the pricing was way out of my range in the 'crate-motor' category. The short block from CHP was comparable to the Engine Factory short blocks.
D.S.S. was still very expensive, but I can imagine, well worth the money for such a beefy motor.) But by going this route, it left the 5.0 engine in tack; not necessarily a bad thing since I could keep my hands clean, however, keep in mind I have a LOT of time on my hands!
After talking to various local machine shops and pinging other forum members, I finally decided upon rebuilding the block myself. This was and still is a tough decision but when I looked at my time line, it makes a lot of sense, even if it took me 1 year to complete the engine because the kit won't be here untill 2005. With new found belief that I can do this, I've also decided similarly to rebuild the transmission.
The rear end plan has also changed from a live axle to a Thunderbird Super Coupe IRS.
While the general plan has changed to some degree, the cost has still hovered in the $32K area. I've been keeping a spreadsheet showing my estimated costs on the left side and purchases to date on the right. Click here to download this spreadsheet and take a peek. Again, it is still being developed and will change from week to week. Just keep in mind I'm still in the planning and research phase.
11/2/2003 -
In a somewhat related subject, my next task is to prepare storage for parts and such. The side of my garage that will be dedicated to the task is quite cluttered with bicycles, cans of paint, a garage pantry and a plastic gorilla rack full of very old items that I probably need to throw away or sell.
I looked around the local stores and even some vendors such as Tuff-Shed. I wanted something that was better than the thin steel shells I'm accustomed to seeing in most back yards but seeing them years after they were new, left them a bit less desireable. But a Tuff-Shed runs into the thousands and even requires a city permit in most cases! I eventually came across some Duramax vinly sheds. These only require a flat surface to build upon and will not rust.
Much like my daughters old Playskool slide, the sides and roof interlock and use plastic retaining bolts. The entire structure for this purpose is 8'W x6'D x6' H. Pefect for my purposes and will not be an eyesore to either myself or neighbors. Best part is, it's only $500 and not a whole lot of work to put up. However, I do want it off the ground so I am going to build a simple platform out of pressure treated redwood, cement pylons and pressure treated plywood boards. The ground has already been loosened up a bit and will create a slight grade for drainage.
11/4/2003 -
Well, today is actually my birthday and wouldn't you know, my order from Amazon.com has arrived: How To Rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines by Tom Monroe, and How To Rebuild a T5 VHS tape. I spent most of the evening going through the book and it has answered just about everything I was wondering about. I feel now that reading it more and more will give me a lot of confidence a rebuild is very possible. The book goes over a lot on reusing old stuff but virtually everthing will be new except the block and main caps. I'll probably start making up a kit cost on just the rotating mass and see what I come up with.
I'm still a bit ambivalent given the costs of a short block though. Sure, I have time and it would be cool but the cost justification just isn't there. The vendors out there do make a good price argument and it's just hard to decide. The priority should be costs and so I feel I'll be chewing on this right up until the time I need to really make a decision. But the book is good anyway because it gives me a good reference on what to expect even if someone else builds a block for me.
11/5/2003 -
I've used a PAW catalog to create a list of parts that would be necessary for completing an engine rebuild. I decided on a 331cid performance package that starts off at $799. When the options for custom balancing and forge steel crank were added, the total for a piston kit was $1,190. But when I added everthing else, the cost soared to over $6,000... and I haven't even added in shipping or the tools that are needed. Suddenly, this approach was raidly heading towards $7,000. While the book on how to rebuild the motor has convinced me I "can" rebuild the motor, the economics of the situation has now forced me to look at the short block/long block options again. It's obvious now that the vendors (D.S.S., CHP, Wynne Speed, Keith Craft and Engine Factory) have made it virtually unnecessary for a normal person to rebuild a motor above and beyond a stock motor.
Now in all honesty, this isn't a fair comparison. I was rather caught in the stroker syndrome and neglected to note that the figures ealier were for 302 motors! I did a rough calculation of PAW's master rebuild kit which contains more parts for the money; the kit starts off at $1304. Adding in moly rings, moly rod bolts and balancing+pressed pistons to rods, added up to $1521. But the kit includes a new oil pump, camshaft, lifters and gaskets. Adding in a high performance cam is a call-in option so I estimated another $200. But all said and done, it still hits over $4600.
To be fair to PAW, I looked up the costs for long block and crate 331cids (the original estimates were for a 302), and $6,000 is actually the going price for a 331 stroker. (Engine Factory, Keith Craft). So at this point in the planning, I need to prioritize the money and horsepower. Below is my 331 cid estimates:
Self Rebuild Route: Engine block machined by local vendor 1,100.00 approx. PAW 331cid stroker kit 799.00 PAW 4340 Forged Steel Crank option 250.00 PAW Custom Balancing 140.00 MSD Pro-Billet Distributor #8479 (Summit Racing) 260.00 Edelbrock Performer RPM w/2.02 intake (PAW) 1,059.00 Performer RPM Intake #7121 (Summit Racing) 144.00 Performer Series Carburator #1405 (Summit Racing) 230.00 Harmonic Balancer 270.00 Flywheel 300.00 Water Pump 110.00 Cobra Valve Covers 110.00 Race Quality Oil Pan 340.00 Mechanical Fuel Pump 69.00 K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) 127.00 Power Master 140amp chrome alternator 260.00 Milodon High Vol/Pressure Oil Pump 52.00 Fel-pro Gaskets (part I) 84.29 Fel-pro Gaskets (part II) 13.95 Compcams Magnum 280H 200.00 est. Roller Tappets 126.00 Self-Build Total ......................................................................................$ 6,044.24
Wynne Speed LB 331C w/AFR Heads $3,899.00 MSD Pro-Billet Distributor #8479 $260.00 Summit Performer RPM Intake #7121 $144.00 Wynne Speed Performer Series Carburator #1405 $230.00 Summit Harmonic Balancer $270.00 Summit (ask which one?) Flywheel $300.00 Summit (ask which one?) Water Pump $110.00 Summit (ask which one?) Cobra Valve Covers $110.00 Tony Branda Oil Pan $197.00 Wynne Speed Mechanical Fuel Pump $69.00 PAW K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) $127.00 Summit Power Master 140amp chrome alternator $260.00 PWM-8-37140 Subtotal of All Parts minus Long Block $2,077.00 Total ...........................................................................................................$5,976.00 Engine Factory 331cid/375HP/375 Ft-Lbs. Long Block: $ 5,495.00 MSD Pro-Billet Distributor #8479 260.00 Summit Performer RPM Intake #7121 144.00 Wynne Speed Performer Series Carburator #1405 230.00 Summit Cobra Valve Covers 110.00 Tony Branda Mechanical Fuel Pump 69.00 PAW K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) 127.00 Summit Power Master 140amp chrome alternator 260.00 PWM-8-37140 Total ..............................................................................................................$ 6,695.00 Engine Factory 331cid/375HP Crate Motor ................................................$ 6,775.00 Keith Craft 331 Fully machined production block, Scat cast steel crank, Scat I beam rods, SRP forged pistons, plasma moly rings, Hyd. Roller camshaft, double roller timing set, hyd roller lifters, Comp cams pushrods, Scorpion roller rockers, ARP fasteners, Fel Pro gaskets, AFR 165 heads or cnc'd Brodix 5.0 Heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Production oil pan, BHJ replacement damper, 28 oz balanced and assembled 5,295.00 Performer Series Carburator #1405 $230.00 Summit Flywheel $300.00 Summit (ask which one?) Water Pump $110.00 Summit (ask which one?) Cobra Valve Covers $110.00 Tony Branda Mechanical Fuel Pump $69.00 PAW K&N X-Stream (KNN-66-3000) $127.00 Summit Power Master 140amp chrome alternator $260.00 PWM-8-37140 Subtotal of All Parts minus Long Block $1,206.00 Total .................................................................................................................$ 6,501.00
It's rather obvious that by going from 302 to 331cid, there is roughly. $500 difference between the two within the same vendor offerings so putting this into perspective, the PAW route isn't that expensive after all, but is at the low-end to be competitive. More number crunching and planning!!!
11/10/2003 -
Back to the storage shed this past weekend. I finally leveled off 9 cement piers in the back yard; this took a full day to do considering I really don't know what the heck I'm doing, other than roughly following some plans for a shed in "Wood Magazine". We've been getting some rain lately which is actually alright with me because it kept the dust down and help compact the dirt more, not to mention keeping me cool with all this sawing and hammering, however, it was very muddy doing all this work. Still, 9 piers are down and 3 sections of 8'x4"x4" pressure treated redwood are all lag-bolted into place. With daylight being shorter these days, I was only able to get 3 of the 6 sets of 2x4 pressure treated studs (cross members) into place.
Over the weekend, I aso did yet more number crunching; this time, it's a bit more fine tuned. I can say with some certainty now, that both D.S.S. and CHP are out of my price range. These turned out to be just cost prohibitive. I also generalized that in terms of Long Block configurations, a 302 v.s. 331 stroker shows a $800-1100 difference from the same manufacturer.
Below is a table of the most likely configurations. I went through 21 different long-blocks and built each one based on what the vendor put into their "long blocks", which widely varied from vendor to vendor. But here are my final four contestants:
Wynne Speed 302B ( AFR heads, cast steel crank, I-beam rods, SRP or Diamond Pistons, moly rings, performance bearings, timing chain and production oil pan). There wasn't a lot more info here so it's not clear to me what the cam is. More inquiry on this and other components. $ 3,899
Wynne Speed 331A (AFR heads, cast steel crank, I-beam rods, Keith Black pistons, moly rings, performance bearings, production oil pan and timing chain. $ 3,599.
Here's how the parts for Wynne Speed added up:
Ford Timing Chain Cover FOR-M-6059-D351$ 125.95 (PAW)
Edelbrock Victor Series Water Pump EDL-8841$ 156.75 (Summit Racing)
ProRace Harmonic Balancer PSP-64269$ 264.95 (PAW)
Centerforce Flywheel CTF-700225$ 222.39 (Summit Racing)
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor MSD-8479$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
Performer RPM Intake EDL-7121$ 144.00 (Wynne Speed Racing)
Performer Series Carburator EDL-1406$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD Blaster Chrome Coil MSD-8200$ 33.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD 6AL Ignition Module$ 195.95 (Summit Racing)
Power Master 140amp chrome alternator PWM-8-37140$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
March Pulley MCH-1560$ 189.95 (Summit Racing)
Ford Hi-Torque Starter FMS-M11000A50$ 159.95 (Summit Racing)
FMS Air Filter/Cover FOR-M-9600-A302$ 34.95 (PAW)
FMS Cobra Valve Covers FOR-M6582-A$ 98.95 (PAW)
Parts Total $ 2407.59
.......................................................................................................................................Total w/ Wynne Speed 302B LB $5806.64
.......................................................................................................................................Total w/ Wynne Speed 331A LB$6006.64
Keith Craft Standard Crate Motor 306 CID ( 375hp/375ft-lbs. - not exactly a long block either) ; from their ad: 'Fully machined production block, production crank, Scat I-beam rods, forged replacement pistons, Plasma moly rings, Federal Mogul bearings, Hyd. roller camshaft, double roller timing set, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, production oilpan, , BHJ replacement damper, 50oz. balanced, blueprinted and assembled'. $4,295.
Edelbrock Victor Series Water Pump EDL-8841$ 156.75 (Summit Racing)
Centerforce Flywheel CTF-700225$ 222.39 (Summit Racing)
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor MSD-8479$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
Performer Series Carburator EDL-1406$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD Blaster Chrome Coil MSD-8200$ 33.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD 6AL Ignition Module$ 195.95 (Summit Racing)
Power Master 140amp chrome alternator PWM-8-37140$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
March Pulley MCH-1560$ 189.95 (Summit Racing)
Ford Hi-Torque Starter FMS-M11000A50$ 159.95 (Summit Racing)
FMS Air Filter/Cover FOR-M-9600-A302$ 34.95 (PAW)
FMS Cobra Valve Covers FOR-M6582-A$ 98.95 (PAW)
Parts Total $ 1686.04
.......................................................................................................................................Total w/ Keith Craft 306 Crate Motor $5980.99
Engine Factory 302 (373hp): blue printed machined 302 roller version block, cast iron crankshaft, deburred and micro polished, shot-peened hardended connecitng rods w/190,000 psi bolts, hyperuetectic 10:1 Federal Mogul pistons, Sealed Power chrome-moly rings, HD double roller Dynagear timing set, Edelbrock Performer RPM hyd. camshaft, Clevlite street racing bearings, Edelbrock RPM heads, chrome-moly pushrods, 1.6:1 roller rockers, Melling High Vol. Oil Pump, Complete Fel-Pro gasket set, harmonic balancer, standard flywheel ($150 more), oil pan, timing chain cover, spark plugs. $ 3675.00
Edelbrock Victor Series Water Pump EDL-8841$ 156.75 (Summit Racing)
Centerforce Flywheel CTF-700225$ 222.39 (Summit Racing)
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor MSD-8479$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
Performer Series Carburator EDL-1406$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD Blaster Chrome Coil MSD-8200$ 33.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD 6AL Ignition Module$ 195.95 (Summit Racing)
Power Master 140amp chrome alternator PWM-8-37140$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
March Pulley MCH-1560$ 189.95 (Summit Racing)
Ford Hi-Torque Starter FMS-M11000A50$ 159.95 (Summit Racing)
FMS Air Filter/Cover FOR-M-9600-A302$ 34.95 (PAW)
FMS Cobra Valve Covers FOR-M6582-A$ 98.95 (PAW)
Parts Total $ 1847.79
.......................................................................................................................................Total w/ Engine Factory 302 LB $5517.79
Ford Racing 5.0L w/B303 cam. This is right off the SVO assembly line; will have the GT-40 alum. heads, production oil pan, timing cover, harmonic balancer, and flywheel: $ 3,219.95!
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor MSD-8479$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
Performer RPM Intake EDL-7121$ 144.00 (Wynne Speed Racing)
Performer Series Carburator EDL-1406$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD Blaster Chrome Coil MSD-8200$ 33.95 (Summit Racing)
MSD 6AL Ignition Module$ 195.95 (Summit Racing)
Power Master 140amp chrome alternator PWM-8-37140$ 259.95 (Summit Racing)
March Pulley MCH-1560$ 189.95 (Summit Racing)
Ford Hi-Torque Starter FMS-M11000A50$ 159.95 (Summit Racing)
FMS Air Filter/Cover FOR-M-9600-A302$ 34.95 (PAW)
FMS Cobra Valve Covers FOR-M6582-A$ 98.95 (PAW)
Parts Total $ 1607.95
.......................................................................................................................................Total w/ Ford 5.0L LB $4827.60
As you can see, the Ford is the best bang for the buck leader here. However, given that the Engine Factory gives me the feeling of a custom built motor with most of the parts I would have chosen, the price is very hard to beat. I could even get the costs down a bit more if I do more comparative shopping on E-Bay. This could yield a much less expensive end product.
I just love spreadsheet engine building. Really does help put things into perspective. :)
11/16/2003 -
This weekend has been all about getting the storage shed finished. This is a classic example of 'measure twice, cut once' and didn't exactly follow that mantra to a T. While I did measure 2 or 3 times, and leveled the platform I was building just as many times, I failed to perform a preliminary and most basic step: squaring the area. I ignored my better judgement of using string to outline the plaform and measuring for square (diagonal measurements); when all 9 pylons were finally set and the joists were all lagged in, I then realized my error. Thankfully, this is just a storage shed and it wasn't off by a large amount; the 8'x4' ply was positioned such that when you look at the shed as a whole, it looks square, relative to the fences. :) So at this point I've begun moving things into the shed; all 4 bicycles, a small generator, varoius bags of home project mixes ( grout, Baslite, spackle, paint, etc.) have begun occupying the shed at a scary pace! But I'm able to see the wall now and have a good 5' from the Highlander to the garage wall.
Just for your information, here's the cost of the shed and foundation materials:
(7) 2"x4" x 8' Pressure Treated Redwood Studs @ $3.49 ea. - $24.43
(21) 2"x4" Galvanize Hangers @ 0.32 ea. - $ 6.72
(9) 8"x8" cement piers @ 2.98 ea. - $ 26.82
(4) 4"x4"x8' Pressure Treated Redwood Posts @ 7.97 ea. - $ 31.88
(2) sheets CDF 8'x4'x3/4" cut to 80" long. - $ 51.50
Box of 16D Gal. Nails - $ 6.49
Box of 5 lag screws - $ 1.99
Bag of 3/8" washers - $ 1.18
Box of 3" deck screws - $ 5.98
Speed Bore 1-1/2" bore bit - $ 4.99
Keter 8'x6'x6' Shed - $ 499.95
Sub Total : $661.93
Sales Tax @ 8.25% - $ 54.61
.......................................................................................................................................Total: $ 716.54
11/21/2003 -
Throughout this month, I've been scanning the FFCobra Classifieds and E-Bay in an effort to find deals on some parts to help reduce the costs of this project. I finally had to fess-up to the "boss" what the true cost of this car will be: $35K. It is $10,000 over what I initially told her back in October when the donor was bought. With a "you're so busted" look on her face, she flatly said "at least you're not buying everything ALL in one year...RIGHT!" which translates to a GRUDGING approval. For what it's worth, I truely love my wife.
Today's entry is the introduction of the FIRST pieces of the project that are going into the kit (outside of the donor itself). I received from UPS, the Edelbrock 1406 Carburetor, 600CFM w/elec. choke. And tonight, a trip to SFO / Forward Air Freight, to pick-up the Thunderbird SuperCoupe IRS with brake calipers. The Edelbrock carb (NIB) was bought on EBay $213.57 (including shipping) which is a good $46 less than Summit before shipping costs. The T-Bird IRS was bought from FFCobra member "Decy", for $345 ($250 for IRS, $50 for calipers+ $45 in freight.) In both instances, the "packaging" ensured that both arrived to me undamaged. I've had so many things shipped to me with crunched boxes, it was nice to get these items intact and not marred or dented.
Also on this day, I submitted my order for an engine cradle and engine stand from Northern Tools. The total cost is $120.92. What's interesting to note, is Summit's total cost for the same items, was just under $3.00 over Northern Tools. It turns out the shipping costs from Northern is just over $45 whereas Summit has the shipping built in to the cost of the items. I had both orders done simultaneously on my computer but did not confirm either until I saw the final costs. So the bottom line is, while Northern Tools in this instance, appears to be less expensive, the shipping costs even things out. BUT if I had ordered a few more "light" items (rivet gun, dial indicator), it's possible the shipping costs would have covered these light items, making the transaction a bit more cost effective. Then again, maybe it was just these particular items (total shipping weight is around 76 lbs.)
11/23/2003 -
Today was the first time I've taken a good look at all the parts; here's the pictorial:
Overall, it's what I expected. I wasn't sure on how to get the hubs out but with both a post and a search on the forums, I came up with an IRS Disassembly site . I've begun looking at the first spindle and began removing the rust inside the hub splines (this things been sitting outdoors for a bit) and I will need to buy a 3-arm HD gear puller (6" arms) to extract the hubs and then have them sent off to 'Stu Spencer' for machining (after I get the new studs). With any luck, I'll have them out just before Thanksgiving (hmmm, could be something to be thankful for.) Since I won't have the FFR half shafts anytime soon, I'll be concentraing on the pumpkin and full disassembly of the half shafts, along with rebuilding and repainting the calipers.
11/24/2003 -
Today I bought a 3-jaw gear puller and some (10) 1/2" x 20 x 1-31/32" wheel studs. The project today was to remove the IRS hubs and get them shipped to Stu Spencer for re-drilling for a 5 stud 4.5" bolt pattern.
One of the first things to be done is to remove the dust sheilds from the spindle. You would think something as simple as a stamped piece of steel held on by 3 - 15mm bolts would be relatively easy. Well it wasn't. Each of these bolts were held tight by a heavy dose of Loc-Tite Blue. And I mean the entire length of the treads were coated. Because of this, just about every 1/2 turn of the wrench was a struggle. But you need to remove this shield before you can get the jaws of the gear puller in place to enable you to remove the hub from the bearings.
Using my 6" bench vise more like a block of rectangular steel, I positioned the spindle such that it allowed me to get some leverage on the bolts. (This would probably be easier if it were still mounted on the T-Bird!) The other issue was, the hub itself is in the way of any socket wrench getting in there. Fortunately, I have a set of "crows feet" open end socket style wrenches from 10mm-17mm. Using the 15mm crow's feet, I was finally able to get in and get all of the bolts in one spindle, off. But the other spindle proved to be more difficult. This time, I got frustrated and simply took some HD tin snips and cut out most of the dust shield where the jaws would need access to. Once the hub was off, I used a 1/2 drive 15mm socket and it was actually easier! In any event, here's a couple of pictures of the crow's feet method:
11/25/2003 -
I sent off the hubs today to Stuart for him to drill and re-press the hubs for a 4.5" bolt pattern. Should look good when they get back. In the meantime, I had a free evening and decided to try and clean up one spindle and here was the results (note that these things originally had caked on dirt/brake dust/grease:
11/26/2003 -
Got home from work and started on the other spindle. Was done in 30 minutes. Here's both of them:
