10/1/2004 - *EDIT* The water pump was installed on the new CHP 347 stroker in July 2006. The picture is still useful for the bolt sizes used, however, on the CHP motor, I used NO sealant on any of the threaded bolts since none of the block's holes penetrate into the water jacket.
1. Measured at 4-3/4", but likely 5" since this may be used for the alternator bracket.
2. 3-1/2".
3. 1-1/2". Use anti-sieze.
4. 3" Use anti-sieze.
5. & 6. 1-1/2". Use anti-sieze
7. 3-1/2".
8. 5".
Once I receive the March alternator bracket in the future, a couple of bolts may change but for now, the sizes here will secure the pump.
10/9/2004 - *EDIT 7/6/2006* I had made a new pointer on the old motor but the new motor and timing plate cover no longer allowed me to use the home-made pointer so I have ordred a billet aluminum pointer to replace the home made unit. Also, throttle return was replaced with a Lokar unit.
10/10/2004 - I went to the hardware store and bought a variety of O-rings to determine if any would be a good fit into the water neck. After trying sereral (fortunately, these are only $0.25 per O-ring) I found one that seemed to fit very will into the recess when the bolt is secured: #11, 3/4"x9/16"x3/32". This one seemed to have just the right thickness. I won't know for awhile, if this one indeed prevents any leaking. I also took the time to finally shim the T5 input shaft. Over 6 months ago, I figured out the measurment of the T5's endplay. I paid Hanlon Motorsports for some shims but I never did get around to installing them until today. Once this was in, I sealed up the input shaft and the 4 bolts with the Black Permatex. The case had been wire-wheeled of nearly all the paint, dirt and grease and I was thinking of sandblasting it as a final prep before painting but over the months, I felt it was actually clean enough for painting. I did a once over with the wire wheel again since some oxidaton did build up. Then a final spray/wipedown with some brake cleaner and 2 coasts of engine enamel "silver" was applied. The results look good enough to stick back in so as of today, as far as I'm concerned, the transmission is pretty much done.
10/17/2004 - Today was the start of the rear-end work ( T-Bird IRS pumpkin ). Spent a total of about 2 hours to to disassemble and clean up most of the gear oil:
What I found amazing is how relatively clean the inside is; appears what people have said are true about the T-Bird diffs. since they mate typically to the automatic transmssion, the abuse isn't bad and quite frankly, I can't find any abnormal wear on either ring or pinion.
With the excess diff. oil removed, the compnents are all sitting on my bench. In the days ahead, I'll be pressing out bearings and likely will sand-blast the casing and cover and repaint. Will see if I can sell of the Traction-Lock spool with 3.27 gears. Stay tuned.
10/18/2004 - A continuation from yesterday. I pressed out the outer CV roller bearings, along with pinion gear races. The casing is now completely bear, and will be prepped for cleaning and painting:
